Surfing a Huge Wave
I’ve spent some time (kayaking or boogie boarding, not surfing) in waves big enough to really get the adrenaline pumping out of fear, and they were a tiny fraction of this size. I can’t imagine what this guy’s heart was doing!
I’ve spent some time (kayaking or boogie boarding, not surfing) in waves big enough to really get the adrenaline pumping out of fear, and they were a tiny fraction of this size. I can’t imagine what this guy’s heart was doing!